Feeding & mulching
To get the best from roses they need regular feeding. An old rosey saying is ‘a well-fed rose is a healthy rose’.
A clay soil will need the addition of a rose fertiliser twice a year, in March (after pruning) and after the first flush of flowers is over (usually late-June/July).
A sandy or chalky soil will need feeding monthly from March to end-July – a small handful of rose fertiliser will suffice.
A loamy soil will need a feeding regime in between the other two types.
Mulching is a good practise; garden compost, leaf mould or manure will keep the moisture in the ground, but bark chippings are best avoided.
Roses will tolerate a dry soil but will perform best in a moist soil.
If the ground is dry, water well occasionally. Little and often watering is best avoided. Rose growers find watering in the morning or keeping the leaves dry reduces incidence of disease.
Pests & diseases (see FAQ)
Many pages have been written on keeping roses free of pests and diseases, but with good husbandry (proper feeding and watering) and choosing healthy varieties of roses (seek advice from garden centre/nursery staff) they can at best be avoided and at worst be of nuisance value only.
If diseases appear, spray with a proprietary fungicide.
If pests (aphids) are troublesome try rubbing them off or use an insecticide such as derris (It’s always a good idea to seek advice about suitable products from garden centre/nursery staff).
Training & pruning climbing/rambling roses
For best results, if growing climbing/rambling roses against a wall or fence, train them to grow horizontally (fan out). The best time to train climbing/rambling roses is September/October.
Stretch wires out along the wall/fence attached to vine eyes/nails, and bend the rose over, attaching it to the wire with string or raffia. The first wire should be around 60cm above soil level and further wires at 60cm intervals.
After a time the stems trained horizontally will throw up vertical stems. Use the strongest verticals arising from the base and /or the middle of the plant to train along higher wires to create another tier if required. Prune the remaining vertical stems to one centimeter from the horizontal stem during September/October. By following this procedure you will avoid an unsightly tall plant with a few flowers at the top and nothing below.
As a general rule, use climbers on walls, fences, pillars and pergolas. Ramblers will grow into hedges, trees over large arches and may also be used on pillars and pergolas.
Roses grow well in containers, providing the following guidelines are followed:
- Sylvagrow is a very good compost and is used and sold on the nursery but not available from all nurseries yet – if you cannot buy Sylvagrow then use a mixture of 50/50 John Innes 3 and multi-purpose compost - roses dislike 100% multipurpose compost.
- Always add a slow release fertiliser each year, and liquid feed from mid-July until September.
- Choose a pot that is at least three times the size that the rose is growing in at the garden centre/nursery.
These shouldn’t be a problem but if you see any shoot coming from the base of the plant which has light green leaves and green stems with a few thorns it could be a sucker. Do not cut it off, pull it off as deep as you can (with good gloves). If coming from underground, dig the soil away and pull it off.
If in doubt, ask at the garden centre/nursery.
Following these guidelines, you’ll have roses that will flower for up to five months of the year with the minimum of attention.
HAPPY ROSE GROWING!